Rach and myself went to Manly today for a little bit of a surf. The waves were very pleasing, visible rolling sets some getting to head height. All right handers, which is good practice for me, although the ride is not the same. We recently had a storm and some big waves so there’s holes and weird sandbanks all along the beach. I got freaked out when I was looking for a ramp to attempt a ‘rodeo clown‘ (honest) and fell into the whitewash that it had the affect of dumping me twice, once from the initial wave break and then again in the weird sandbank creation.
So a bit later I launch into this left hander (that was probably a right hander), I took the angle to steep on the bottom turn and went straight into the wall. The wave pulled me over and flipped the board, so this time the double dump was me but in some kind of upside position with the board so I got the G5’s
in my legs and backside twice! Ouch!! After an initial check I didn’t need major surgery I was back out there but lost my nerve a little bit….
So the afternoon session and the tide was coming in. There was a beautiful right hand wave coming in that could have given a 10 second ride easy if anyone was good enough to do it (no one was though). I caught some great right handers which I was particulary proud of being a goofy footed surfer. Then disaster struck, I didn’t have enough wax on the board and was slipping on take off. The day was drawing to an end and Rach had stopped practicing (she is getting very good) so I was thinking of coming in. I caught this right hander and slipped off the front from lack of wax on the board, I went head first into the water with surfboard just behind, I felt the crack as the nose hit my head and a crunch. I thought I’d broken my head open, but it turned out it was the nose of the board breaking (from a previous injury it sustained whilst surfing some rubbish dumpy waves). So I went home after that. Evidence –